Later coil packs can give problems, normal coil problems would be engine management light on engine lacking power, may be stalling and sounding like a lumpy sewing machine (see picture). Test with spark tester, see misfire.
If the clutch pedal suddenly goes loose, the master cylinder to clutch pedal retaining clip has broken and the rod has become detached, this can be fixed temporary with a cable tie see picture. When it becomes detached, it hits the clutch pedal switch hard, this may break the switch or unclip the casing it if lucky, this will probably put the engine management light on if not clipped back together or replaced. Click here for solution
This one hard been giving the owner problems for a while, he would have trouble starting, but once started it would be find all day but it wasn’t the normal glow plug problem. The diesel supply pipe to fuel filter had rubbed on the coolant expansion tank, creating an air leak, this allowed the fuel to drain back to the tank when left over night, we put some tape on to drive it to the workshop for a proper repair see picture.
Use the advice links above to help diagnose your non-start, immobilizer, warning lights, and engine or general problems. No problems listed by make and model on these.
If the battery is going flat and the battery warning light is on, you may have a broken wire. Later Fords are fitted with ‘smart charge’ this is when the ECU (cars computer) can control the charging output of the alternator.
Check for bad connection on ‘smart charging’ alternator plug or broken wires (see picture), this may need replacement plug and sub loom, this is listed for the Ford Connect part no.1421293, but can be modified for other models.
Tip, if you remove the plug and the wiring is the fault, the alternator will use its internal regulator and start working again (battery light might still be on), see charging.
TDCI engines can start smoking (black smoke) and loose power due to EGR (Exhaust Gas Recalculation) valve sticking, try removing pipe or connector and then gently tap valve to get valve to close, you may need to leave disconnected until valve is replaced(see EGR page), this will leave Engine Management light on.
Later Ford's measure the temperature of the metal as opposed to the coolant, if the engine overheats the computer will shut down the engine to prevent damage, but if the sensors goes faulty (e.g. In the red) the car will not start or stop.
Normally will be non-start but may cut out then be non-start, problem is the fuel pump is worn and pulling to much power, this will blow fuse number 35 (10amp) this is at the end of the fuse box under the bonnet (see picture). Replacing fuse will get car started but will break down again if pump is not changed. (see testing fuses)
They also suffer from worn keys/steering lock jammed, to un-jam steering lock, remove cowling and ignition switch from lock (two little lugs), with fingers or pliers turn the lug. Which goes into switch at the back of the lock, at the same time wiggling and turning the key, once lock is off, then turn ignition switch, to match position of lock with screwdriver and refit switch, you normally have to do this every time until the lock is replaced.
Older Fords can suffer Non-start due to minor corrosion in the connection on the (CPS) Crankshaft Position Sensor (see picture), this is located just above the starter motor. Just push in spring retaining clip and pull connector on and off a few times spraying with WD40, this is very easy to do on the early cars, but the later cars have emission air pump bolted above it, making it very hard to remove, sometimes just gently wiggling the wiring loom/connector will be enough to make the sensors connect, the sensor produces its own AC voltage, which is easily lost due to corrosion.